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Marketing of Fairness Creams and the Question of Ethics

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On September 5, 2007 it was reported that a new fairness cream for men by a leading pharmaceutical company, endorsed by a renowned beauty specialist, would be hitting the local stores shortly. The launch would take the number of men's fairness cream brands in the Indian consumer market to half a dozen.

Most Indians, as also South Asians, have for long desired a fair complexion and their quest to shed the darker tone had prompted many Fast Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG)

behemoths to venture into the business of manufacturing and marketing skin-lightening products, such as fairness creams, lotions, cold creams, and soaps.

In particular, fairness creams have been very popular and many FMCG companies have come out with their own brands. For instance, as of 2007, Hindustan Unilever Ltd. (HUL) had a range of products under the brand name ‘Fair & Lovely'.

Other notable brands included Cavincare Ltd.'s ‘Fairever', Godrej Group's ‘Fairglow', Elder Group's ‘FairOne' and Emami Group's ‘Gold Turmeric' and 'Naturally Fair'. In addition to this, many global cosmetic brands had also begun offering skin-lightening products in the Indian market.

According to industry experts, as of 2007, the emerging skin-lightening products industry in India was worth US$318 million, and was growing at a fast rate, especially in the male-grooming sector. Skin-lightening products accounted for almost 40 percent of the Indian cosmetics industry.

The growing awareness among men to look good and results of marketing research by the industry suggesting that 75 percent men were using fairness creams made for women prompted FMCG companies to manufacture separate fairness products to cater to the needs of both genders.

The industry had used light-skinned models and even celebrities to endorse their fairness products, leading to a boost in the demand for skin-lightening products among the target audience.

According to analysts, striking ads in the mass media featuring celebrities, beauty specialists and dermatologists endorsing these products had helped increase the sales of skin-lightening products.

The marketing of fairness products had always been a controversial issue. Professional dermatologists have been skeptical about the effectiveness of these creams. According to them, these creams were only partly effective and merely act as sun-blocking agents, helping in preventing the skin from getting tanned.

Moreover, controlled studies on the efficacy and safety of fairness creams were lacking. But critics have been more concerned with the socio-psychological effects of these products.

Psychologists have observed that in the Indian context, fairness is associated with power, superiority, and influence, and hence Indians prefer lighter skin. The introduction of fairness products in India has only reinforced age-old prejudices that equate fair skin with good looks.

This emphasis on a light skin color and its importance in the marriage market is evident from the matrimonial columns of newspapers and matrimonial web sites.

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